Hair Removal Takes Time: Here’s Why


June 2, 2016

By Matthew Pruitt

Yesterday I heard a client ask why he had to wait so long before he could have another session of laser hair removal. As I listened to the conversation unfold I realized I was thinking the exact same thing just the day before.

I have had 2 laser treatments on the back of my neck, right along the hair line. It’s one of those areas that starts to look shabby and untidy about a week after a perfectly good haircut. It’s frustrating because it’s an area you can’t reach yourself. So there are two options, either get a haircut every other week or live with it. I realized this was the case recently and immediately consulted the Skin Bar NYC app on my phone to book laser right away.

It was an impulse that came from the frustration of wanting a permanent solution to this ongoing problem, and I wanted it now, Dammit!

After I took a deep breath and reminding myself that laser is a permanent solution to this ongoing frustration, I resigned myself the fact that a little patience today will pay big dividends later. After refection it made me realize that the laser hair removal journey can be a frustrating process due to the amount of time it takes to achieve permanent results.
For anyone new to laser hair removal you may be surprised to learn that in order to achieve 70%-90% permanent hair reduction it requires an average of six to eight treatments performed over a six to ten month period of time.

Why so long? There are two reasons.

lhrdiagramHair growth cycles are the primary reason that laser takes time. There are three hair growth cycles, Anagen, Catagen and Telogen. Laser hair removal works when hair growth is in the Anagen phase of hair growth. This is the active period when the hair follicle is thickest, contains the most melanin (color) and is solidly connected to the root. At any given time 15-20% of hair follicles are in the Anagen phase. These are the hairs targeted by the laser for destruction.
The Anagen phase lasts several weeks before moving into the transition phase called Catagen. In the Catagen phase, growth has stopped and the hair separates from the root. This phase can last anywhere from a few days to one week. Making it the shortest of all three phases.

The final stage in the hair growth cycle is the Telogen phase. Also known as the resting phase. At this point the root is dormant and lays in wait for the body to signal new hair growth. During this phase, which can last anywhere from 1 month to 4 months, the hair follicle may still be present or it may shed. Either way laser hair removal is not effective in this stage.

Laser hair removal is all about timing. Catching the hair during the growth phase is critical to success. That’s a big reason for separating laser sessions for periods ranging from four to eight weeks. And because only 15-20% of hair is in the active growth phase, during any treatment, a series of at least 6 are necessary to achieve optimal results.

There is another reason that laser takes time and patience to be effective. Safety!

Safety is always our first priority whenever we treat with lasers. Lasers are strong devices that produce serious power. That power can be harnessed to do amazing things like permanently remove unwanted hair, but they can also be dangerous if not used with the utmost care.

Laser hair removal works by focusing direct energy on the shaft of the hair, which then hitches a ride to the follicle zapping it into submission. The destruction of the hair follicle means, no more hair. And because the laser beam targets lots of follicles at one time, it destroys many follicles with every zap.

But, after the laser is done working its magic, heat continues to linger under the skin. Melanocytes are excited temporarily resulting in more sensitive skin. Specifically, sensitivity to sunlight and added sources of heat. That is why we recommend avoiding the sun, steam rooms and saunas before and after laser hair removal.

The time between laser treatments ensures that heat has dissipated and the melanocytes in your skin have had a chance to calm down. If heat is added hastily, with more laser energy or sun exposure, the risk of a burn increases exponentially.

Laser hair removal has become so popular today because people like me don’t want to be bothered with a trip to the barber every week for a cleanup. I don’t have the time or the money to be bothered with it. Laser hair removal offers an intriguing alternative that is permanent. All you need to do is add patience and the reward will be well worth the effort.

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Matthew Pruitt

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